Solena Materials and The Protein Express Secure Funding to Advance Scalable Protein-Based Textiles

Solena Materials and The Protein Express have secured €1.4 million in funding to support the development and commercialization of protein-based textile fibres, a category of materials that could help reduce the fashion industry's reliance on fossil fuel-derived synthetic fabrics. The funding was awarded through the Eureka Eurostars programme and will support a 32-month collaboration known as EXPREST.

The initiative brings together two complementary technologies. Solena Materials, a London-based biomaterials company spun out of Imperial College London, specializes in artificial intelligence-driven protein design. The Protein Express, based in the Netherlands, contributes expertise in industrial fermentation and large-scale biomanufacturing. Together, the companies aim to develop protein fibres that can be produced efficiently and economically at industrial scale.

The project addresses one of the biggest challenges facing next-generation biomaterials: moving promising laboratory innovations into commercially viable manufacturing processes.

Searching for Alternatives to Synthetic Textiles

The global textile industry remains heavily dependent on synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic. These materials are typically produced from petrochemical feedstocks and contribute to greenhouse gas emissions throughout their lifecycle. They are also a major source of microplastic pollution, releasing tiny plastic particles during production, use, and washing.

Growing regulatory pressure, consumer demand for sustainable products, and corporate climate commitments are driving interest in alternative materials. Companies across the fashion and textile sectors are increasingly exploring bio-based fibres that can deliver performance characteristics similar to synthetic materials while reducing environmental impacts.

Protein-based fibres have emerged as one of the most promising areas of innovation. However, many protein-derived textile technologies have struggled with manufacturing complexity, high production costs, and challenges in scaling from laboratory production to industrial volumes.

The EXPREST project is specifically designed to overcome these barriers.

Combining AI-Driven Design with Industrial Fermentation

Under the collaboration, Solena Materials will use its proprietary artificial intelligence platform to design novel proteins optimized for textile applications. These proteins are created using deep learning models that allow researchers to tailor material characteristics such as strength, flexibility, softness, biodegradability, and durability at the molecular level.

The Protein Express will then apply its fermentation expertise to produce these proteins at larger scales using renewable biological feedstocks. Fermentation-based manufacturing has become an increasingly important technology within the bioeconomy because it can potentially replace fossil-derived materials with products generated through biological processes.

According to the project partners, the goal is to create a high-performance spinnable protein fibre that can be manufactured at commercially relevant volumes and costs. The companies also intend to develop scalable purification systems and manufacturing processes capable of supporting future industrial deployment.

Building the Evidence for Commercial Adoption

Beyond material development, the project includes several activities intended to support market readiness and regulatory compliance.

The consortium plans to generate validated Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) data to quantify environmental impacts and compare the new fibres with existing textile materials. Life Cycle Assessments are increasingly important for companies seeking to substantiate sustainability claims and comply with evolving environmental disclosure requirements.

The project will also conduct Techno-Economic Analysis (TEA) to evaluate production costs and commercial feasibility. These assessments are critical because many biomaterials have demonstrated environmental benefits but struggled to compete economically with established textile supply chains.

In addition, the companies intend to align development activities with EU REACH requirements, helping ensure future regulatory compliance within European markets.

Initial Focus on Performance and Premium Apparel

The first target markets for the new fibres will be performance apparel and premium clothing segments. These sectors often adopt advanced materials earlier than mass-market apparel because consumers are willing to pay for enhanced functionality, durability, and sustainability attributes.

However, both companies see broader opportunities beyond premium applications. If production can be scaled successfully, protein-based fibres could eventually be integrated into a wider range of textile products across the fashion industry.

Solena Materials has already attracted significant investor interest. In 2025, the company raised $6.7 million in seed funding to expand production capacity and accelerate commercialization of its protein fibre platform. The company has stated that its long-term objective is to replace petroleum-derived textile materials with biodegradable alternatives designed using artificial intelligence and produced through biological manufacturing systems.

Implications for Sustainable Manufacturing

The funding announcement reflects a broader trend within sustainable materials innovation. As governments and companies seek pathways to reduce emissions and resource consumption, advanced biomaterials are attracting growing investment and research attention.

While protein-based textiles remain an emerging technology, projects such as EXPREST demonstrate increasing efforts to address the practical challenges that have historically limited adoption. By focusing on scalability, cost competitiveness, lifecycle performance, and regulatory readiness simultaneously, the partners are attempting to bridge the gap between laboratory innovation and commercial deployment.

For apparel brands, textile manufacturers, and sustainability-focused investors, the project highlights how biotechnology and artificial intelligence are increasingly converging to create new materials designed specifically for performance and environmental objectives.

If successful, the collaboration could contribute to a future generation of textile fibres that reduce dependence on fossil resources while maintaining the performance standards demanded by modern apparel markets.

Source: sustainabilityonline.net